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| The highest
peak in the American Continent, Mount Aconcagua is entirely located
in Argentine territory. It has been measured to be 6,959 mt. high
and is surrounded by several peaks over 5,000 metres above sea level. |
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Its name
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| Its
aboriginal name comes from quichua meaning “Stone Sentinel”.
In araucano, it comes from "Aconca – Hue", a mapuche
term applied to the river of the same name. |
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Historical
background |
The
araucanos used to inhabit the area where Aconcagua is located. Later
on the Incas, coming from faraway Cuzco, invaded these regions bringing
with them their culture and language: quichua.
In 1985 an Inca mummy was discovered, a youngster sacrificed in the
area (5,000mt.), and in the burial site next to it gifts to the gods
were found such as feathers, statuettes, etc.
In 1817 General Don José de San Martín, "the first
American mountaneer", crossed the high mountain passes of Aconcagua
between Argentina and Chile, liberating the country from Sapnish domination.
In 1833, the German climber Paul Gussfeldt gave a bright start to
the history of conquest of Mount Aconcagua, reaching a height of 6,560
metres. This remarkable adventure at only 500 metres from the summit
opened the way for future expeditions.
In 1896, the English climber Edward Fitz Gerald searching for a different
route from that followed by Gussfeldt discovered the route that later
on became the regular one.
The first Argentine to reach the summit was Lieutenant Nicolás
Platamura on March 8, 1934.
Up to this date countless climbers have reached the summit of “The
Colossus of America”, discovering several new routes. |
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Access
Pathways |
Leaving
from the City of Mendoza, you arrive at Puente de Inca, 175 km from
the city following the international road connecting Argentina and
Chile (fully paved). There is a regular bus service between these
two locations.
The only way to go from Puente del Inca or Punta de Vacas to the base
camps (Plaza de Mulas, Plaza Francia or Plaza Argentina) is on foot
or mules. Hiring companies devoted to the overall organisation of
these expeditions is highly advisable. |
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Climbing
Season |
| Generally
from December through March. It is advisable to set aside several
days to wait for the right time to ascend in case of bad weather. |
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| ROUTES |
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Regular
Route |
It
starts from Plaza de Mulas and climbing to the high area called "Portezuelo
del Manso" (5,200 mts.) where spending a couple of days for acclimation
is advisable.
On some years a small lagoon is formed which can supply water to climbers.
Following easy slopes, the shelters are reached located 6,000 mt.
above sea level. They are: "Plantamura", "Libertad"
and "Berlín". Climbers usually stay there a couple
of days for acclimation. Two alternatives are open to climbers from
here: one is to proceed directly to the summit in an exhausting journey
lasting one day; the other is to go to the "Independencia"
shelter (6,400 mt.), spend the night there, and attack the summit
the following day.
The first is the most usual alternative whose disadvantage, however,
is that for one reason or another, night falls on the descent, which
then has to be interrupted since it is always preferable to dencend
with daylight. As to the second alternative, even though the ascent
is accomplished sooner, night at that altitude is very uncomfortable,
plus the fact the shelter is half destroyed. |
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Polacos
Glacier |
Going
up the ravine of Vacas river and Relinchos stream climbers arrive
at "Plaza Argentina Superior" base camp 4,100 metres above
sea level.
From the base camp it is necessary to climb west – northwest
up several steep slopes to 4,700 mt., where camp number 1 is set up.
Going in the same direction climbers arrive at Portezuelo Ameghino
at 5,300 mt. and set up camp number 2. From Portezuelo they should
continue towards the south-west climbing up the north slope of the
west ridge up to about 5,800 mt, almost at the beginning of the Polacos
glacier, where camp number 3 is set up. Once the glacier has been
reached, it is necessary to continue to 6,500 mt., very close to the
ridge of the funnel in a place protected by rocks called "Piedra
Bandera" where camp number 4 is set up. To attack the summit
from this camp, setting up a vivac at 6,700 mt. is advisable. |
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French
Route |
The
south wall with its almost 3,000 mt. has a spur that provides shelter
in case of rocks becoming loose or of avalanches.
The base camp located 4,100 mt. above sea level is called "Plaza
Francia" and is found to the left of the beginning of the spur.
The camp can be accessed through a steep slope and an easy climb at
the base of the "Grandes Torres" at 4,900 mt.
After journeying through a considerable gradient of ice and overcoming
a small rock barrier, climbers go past the "cascade" of
Glacier Superior where camp 3 (6,400 mt.) is set up. Travelling through
the upper spur on challenging ground ( 5° degrees of difficulty),
camp number 4 is set up at 6,700 mt. from where the summit is attacked. |
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Argentine
Route |
The
approximation route is through the Vacas and Relinchos valleys to
“Plaza Argentina Superior".
The East Glacier is located between the Polacos Glacier and the South
wall at about 6,300 mt. The lower stretches do not pose great difficulty.
This becomes evident at 6,200 mt. The final section is reached near
the summit through the ridge of the Polacos Glacier. |
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Mendocino
Route |
| Climbers
enter through the Horcones valley up to the summit of mount Pirámide
( 6,000 mt.). From there, and following a canal close to 6,100 mt.,
the route joins the original South- West Ridge route which leads to
the south summit. The descent is achieved through the Gran Acarreo
to Plaza de Mulas. |
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