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| It’s
the highest summit in The Americas, which is located in Argentinean
soil. According to its measurements, its altitude amounts to 6,959
m, surrounded by a big number of summits that are higher than 5,000
m. |
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Its name
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| Its
indigenous Quechua name would be translated as “Stone Sentinel”.
It is stated that in Araucarian it comes from “Aconca –
Hue”, the river with this same name. |
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History |
The
Americas were inhabited by the Araucarian. Then the Incas, coming
from Cuzco invaded this region bringing their culture and language:
Quechua
In 1817 Gral Don José de San Martín, “the first
highlander in The Americas”, crossed the Acongagua, the high
border pass between Argentina and Chile, lliberating the country from
Spanish command.
In 1896, the English climber Edward Fitz Gerald was in search for
a route different from Gussfeldt’s when he discovered the route
that would later be the most popular one.
The first Argentine to reach the summit was Lieutenant Nicolás
Platamura. This accomplishment took place on March 8th 1934.
Until these days, lots of climbers have reached the summit of the
Colossus of The Amtericas through different routes. |
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Accesses
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From
Mendoza City, you have access to Puente del Inca (175km) through the
International route that links Argentina and Chile (fully paved).
Regular coach service is offered in this route.
From Puente del Inca or Punta de Vacas to the base camps (Plaza de
Mulas, Plaza Francia or Plaza Argentina) access is only on foot or
on horseback. Hiring companies specialized in the organization of
excursions is recommended. |
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Climbing
Season |
| Usually
from December to March. It is necessary to have several days of lodging
reservation to wait for the proper weather in case of storm. |
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| ROUTES |
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Regular
Route |
From
Plaza de Mulas, till the highest part of the so-called “Portezuelo
del Manso” (5,200 m), where a few days for adjustment is recommended.
Some years there is a small lagoon that supplies the necessary water
to sportspeople.
Continuing along easy pathways is the access to the 6,000m shelters:
“Plantamura”, “Libertad” and “Berlin”.
A few days for adjustment are also recommended. From here there are
two alternatives: the first is to go on an exhausting one-day journey
straight to the summit; the second is to reach the “Independencia”
shelter (6,400 m) and reach the summit on the following day.
The first alternative is the most frequently chosen, but its downside
lays on the fact that no matter what, the night always surprises climbers
on their descent, when it is necessary to try to have daylight. As
for the second, even though the day is shorter, spending the night
at those altitudes is awfully uncomfortable, since the shelter does
not provide full protection. |
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Polacos
Glacier
(Glaciar de los Polacos) |
Crossing
Quebrada del Río de Vacas (Rio de Vacas mountain stream) and
Arroyo Relinchos (Relinchos stream) is the access to the base camp
“Plaza Argentina Superior” at 4,100 m of altitude.
From the base camp, ascent is in West – Northwest direction
along sharp slopes until reaching 4,700 m of altitude, where camp
N°1 is set up. Following the right direction there is access to
Portezuelo Ameghino at 5,300 m of altitude, where camp N° 2 is
set up. From Portezuelo, climbers are to continue in South-West direction,
ascending along the west ridge till 5,800 m of altitude. |
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French
Route |
The
south wall with its almost 3,000 mt. has a spur that provides shelter
in case of rocks becoming loose or of avalanches.
The base camp located 4,100 mt. above sea level is called "Plaza
Francia" and is found to the left of the beginning of the spur.
The camp can be accessed through a steep slope and an easy climb at
the base of the "Grandes Torres" at 4,900 mt.
After journeying through a considerable gradient of ice and overcoming
a small rock barrier, climbers go past the "cascade" of
Glacier Superior where camp 3 (6,400 mt.) is set up. Travelling through
the upper spur on challenging ground ( 5° degrees of difficulty),
camp number 4 is set up at 6,700 mt. from where the summit is attacked. |
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Argentinean
Route |
| The
approach route is through “Valle de las Vacas y Relinchos, till
“Plaza Argentina Superior”. The East Glaciar is located
between Glaciar de los Polacos and the South Face, and begins at 6,300m
of altitude. The bottom stretches are not of high difficulty, which
begins at 6,200m. The final stretch is reached close to the summit,
through the ridge of Glaciar de los Polacos. |
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Ruta de los Mendocinos (Mendocineans’ Route) |
| Entry
is through Valle de Horcones till the top of Cerro Pirámide
(6,000m). From there and through a stretch close to the 6,100m it
links with the original route of the South-West ridge that leads to
the South summit. Descent is done towards Plaza de Mulas. |
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